LOCKOFF · a HIGHSET product
Train with intent.
Most climbers train by feel and remember it wrong. LOCKOFF plans your week in blocks, logs what you actually did, and shows you the trend — fingers and strength, but also how you move, how you read a problem and how you hold it together. Strength is the easiest thing to measure. It is rarely the thing holding you back.
No installation needed. Works without an account — sign in to sync across devices.
The week
A week you can actually keep.
Build the week from blocks — climbing, strength, mobility, endurance, technique, tactics, mind. Each block carries its own exercises, sets and notes. Tick them off as you go; the week shows what is done and what is left, without guilt-tripping you.
The whole climber
Technique, tactics and the head are training too.
Not a warm-up, not a beginner topic, not something to fit in if there is time. They are blocks like any other, with metrics that actually fit them: technique as reps × execution quality, tactics as moves read × moves read correctly, the head as exposures × tension — scored as composure, so getting calmer reads as progress instead of a drop. Your analysis notices when a month of logs contains none of them.
The evidence
See what moved — and what didn't.
History turns your logs into trend curves: session volume, distribution across disciplines, finger-strength index over months. It answers the question training apps usually dodge — did the last block work?
The finger test
One honest number for your fingers.
A repeatable protocol, timed in the app, stored with your bodyweight. Because progress on the fingerboard is the one thing you cannot feel reliably — but you can measure it.
The AI coach
It reads your week before it talks.
The optional AI Coach sees today's plan, this week's focus and your own analysis — then proposes the next block, which you can apply with one tap. Answers are generated by a language model and can be wrong. Your name and email never leave the app; conversations stay on your device.
Grounded
Built on published work, not gym folklore.
The exercises, protocols and coach logic follow peer-reviewed research and established training references — above all the competitive-bouldering work of Dr. Jerry Medernach.
The same applies to the parts that are not physical. Every technique, tactics and mental exercise carries its source and its rank — peer-reviewed, textbook or coaching practice — and you can open it in the app.
Fingerboard protocol
Medernach, Kleinöder & Lötzerich (2015), J Strength Cond Res 29(8)
Interval bouldering
Medernach et al. (2015) — hanging & climbing time to exhaustion
MaxHangs
Eva López, PhD
Repeaters
Anderson brothers — The Rock Climber's Training Manual
Stages of motor learning
Fitts & Posner (1967) — the five technique quality levels
Practice design
Schmidt & Lee — varied practice beats blocked repetition
Route preview
Sanchez, Grushko, Whitaker et al. — visual search in climbing
Falling & attention
Arno Ilgner — The Rock Warrior's Way
Where the limiter really is
Dave MacLeod · Udo Neumann
Training for Climbing
Eric J. Hörst
Overcoming Gravity
Steven Low (2nd ed.)
Rest days are training too.
When HIGHSET says the rock is wet, LOCKOFF says what to do instead. One account for both.